Pour L'Homme by Roger & Gallet

Pour L'Homme by Roger & Gallet is a lovely, sophisticated chypre launched in 1993. It has echoes of 1980s fragrances but feels lighter and more lively. It starts with lively citrus notes combined with basil, a slight fruit note and what I perceive as a touch of eucalyptus. The middle notes add rose and jasmine touches including a complex note that might be cyclamen. The base notes are a comforting soft cedar, moss and musk. Pour L'Homme is made up of natural notes and could be characterized as a deeper version of traditional eau de colognes. The longevity is 5 or six hours and it's a refined fragrance that can be worn in any setting. I believe it's been discontinued but you can still find some bottles online.

Wild Fern by Geo F. Trumper

This is a lovely herby fougere introduced in 1877 by London barbershop and fragrance house George F. Trumper. It starts with wonderful top notes of lavender, citrus, basil and rosemary that are lively yet comforting. It transitions to middle notes that include lavender, geranium and carnation that evoke an expensive soap. The drydown is calm and relaxing oakmoss and musk along with some of the floral elements and perhaps the slightest bit of patchouli for depth. The herbiness continues throughout including the leafy fern-like quality of a good fougere. This cologne would be appropriate in almost any setting; it's a refined fragrance that projects an air of calm and sophistication. It lasts 6 or 7 hours and is a pleasure to wear for those who enjoy traditional colognes based on natural ingredients.

Royale Ambree by Legrain

Royale Ambree by Legrain is a classic fragrance based on the traditional eau de cologne recipe and is wonderfully refreshing and uplifting. It starts with a burst of lemon and a generous amount of bergamot and orange blossom accompanied by lavender and rosemary. The middle is floral, possibly rose, with hints of lavender and rosemary that appear from time to time. The base is a light but satisfying moss and musk combination.

The predominant notes throughout the development of the fragrance are bergamot and orange blossom balanced by the more herbaceous lavender and rosemary. Longevity is around 2 to 3 hours. If you enjoy eau de colognes like Muelhens 4711 or Roger & Gallet Extra Vielle you'll enjoy this beautiful variation on the theme.

Acqua di Selva by Visconti di Modrone

This is a fresh, light and piney take on the classic eau de cologne recipe. Acqua di Selva has been around since 1949 and I believe it was originally made by a company called Victor. The opening of this Visconti di Modrone version is invigorating lemon, bergamot and a pine or rosemary with accents of lavender. I also sense an herbal note such as basil in there too. The middle notes are a pine and/or rosemary note combined with lavender and some other floral such as geranium or possibly carnation. The base is a pleasant musk with a bit of oakmoss. This cologne is great for summer days where you want to smell like a traditional eau de cologne but with a pine twist and Mediterranean flair. It's fairly light and lasts an hour or two before drying down to a calm woody piney-ness.

Rive Gauche Pour Homme by Yves Saint Laurent

A lavender and oakmoss based fougere puncuated by clove. Rive Gauche smells similar to traditional shaving creams such as Barbasol. The scent is fairly linear and there is a dry, synthetic note that you don't find in traditional colognes. There might be some dry vetiver in the base along with oakmoss. This feels like a modern interpretation of traditional colognes like Brut but without the floral complexity.

Dunhill Desire by Alfred Dunhill

This is a fresh and lively cologne that works well for the office or casual wear. It starts out with some light citrus and apple notes and progresses to middle notes that are mostly fruity with a pleasant flower component, perhaps rose. The base notes are light woods and musk.

The overall feel is a bit synthetic but possesses an enjoyable mix of fruity, musk and light wood notes. It's a little bit sweet but not overly so. Likely a good cologne for someone starting out or who doesn't like super heavy scents. It reminds me a bit of Lacoste Style in Play but without the dry, ozone note.

B Men by Thierry Mugler

I love this cologne. It is a mixture of bright and energetic ingredients and deeper, comforting notes. It starts off with a bit of citrus, lavender and some kind of herby/fruity type of note that is invigorating. The middle has some kind of wood that I find really interesting along with a synthetic/ozone type of feel and some spices that I find exhilarating. I also detect a coffee note in the mid notes. I pick up a patchouli note that emerges fairly quickly in the dry down and adds considerable body. There is a warm amber at the base as well as some cedar. This cologne is a great mix of modern and traditional and smells quite cutting edge while still being comforting.

Man by Arsenal

This is a fairly straightforward synthetic cologne I found on eBay. Starts out with lavender and slight citrus with a pronounced synthetic rosemary note. The middle notes a slightly sweet and floral, I can't tell exactly what's in there but it could be jasmine. It has a linear development which mellows out a bit to include some amber and sandalwood in the base notes.

The overall impression of this cologne is quite synthetic, simple and sporty. Good for basic use when you don't want something complicated but not a hugely exciting. Perhaps a good starter scent although I don't think it's very easy to find. A couple of the notes smell vaguely similar to Dunhill Desire for men but less refined.

Lauder for Men by Estee Lauder

Lauder for Men is one of the great classic fougeres of the 1980's. It's a cologne that evokes refinement and complexity. It starts out with a fresh, herby shot of green notes, clary sage and anise that is quite dynamic. This is quickly followed by a healthy floral component including jasmine, carnation and rose. The middle stays floral with some of the lighter herbals and a pronounced patchouli note that adds depth and tartness. The base has a great oakmoss, musk and cedar combination.

My overall impression is of a floral but quite masculine cologne with a tangy patchouli note that makes this cologne be noticed. The combination of notes, like in many fine fragrances, is harmonious, complex, well-designed and tailored. This is a sophisticated fragrance that may not appeal to someone who is looking for lighter scents but will reward cologne lovers who relish herby florals with musk, patchouli and oakmoss drydowns.

I miss fragrances like these. The 1980s seemed to produce fragrances that were highly aromatic and full-bodied in a pleasant way. While trends have certainly moved toward white musks, light orientals and fleeting aquatics, Lauder for Men evokes memories of rich scents filled with bold and entrancing notes. A joy.