Santa Maria Novella Article

Smithsonianmag.com (Smithsonian Magazine) has a great cologne article on Santa Maria Novella, a historic perfumery in Florence.

Pino Silvestre

A classic Italian cologne. Starts with a citrusy, lemony blast with plenty of lavender and some kind of herb, perhaps clary sage. It quickly settles into a piney and woody/cedary, mostly dry base with some moss and amber or musk. This smells like a toned-down version of Puig's Agua Brava with less complexity and spiciness. There are some soapy and floral notes (geranium perhaps) in the middle which keep the cologne from being too heavy. The overall impression is of a fairly dry, piney and woody cologne with a soapy freshness. A traditional style men's cologne, not like a modern version of fresh.

Esencia Loewe

A full-bodied, masculine and aromatic chypre that also has lavender in it. Initial notes of citrus and green aromatics. I notice quite a bit of geranium in the middle as well as lavender and clary sage. Very well constructed and develops a rich base of amber and cedar. There is a rich pine-like resin note that even adds some smokiness throughout its development. I sense a tartness which could be patchouli in the dry down. A classic, rich 80s masterpiece with deep, Mediterranean complexity.

Royall Bay Rhum

A brisk, spicy and refreshing masculine cologne. An invigorating blast of menthol, bay leaf and clove. Harkens back to traditional men's scents reminiscent in barber shops. Bay Rhum has a cooling effect and the dry down smells mostly like bay leaf and spice. The cologne dissipates after an hour or two so longevity is not great. A classic everyone can still enjoy. Wonderful on a hot day.

Worth Pour Homme

I have the latest incarnation of this cologne in the clear bottle with blue cap. Starts of citrusy, with petitgrain and rosemary that feels herby and fresh. Perhaps there is some lavender in there too. The middle is mildly spicy and I pick up quite a bit of either carnation or geranium or a mix of both. There is a slight honey-like note that I find a little sharp. The base is quite ambery and musky with some cedar thrown in. I really love the opening of this cologne but the amber/musk/geranium/carnation note kind of messes with my head. Other people may not even perceive this note, I pick it up in Burberry Weekend as well.

This cologne has an understated sophistication about it that is mature rather than fresh. Sample this one first to make sure you like the mixture of notes.

Agua Lavanda Puig

A staple of Spanish colognes for many years. A fresh, herbal and invigorating lavender that is not overly dry. Opens with citrus, bergamot and lavender that is sweet and herbal. The middle is more lavender with some clary sage and a firm geranium grounding that gives it a masculine touch rather than fleeting and dry. Some tonka and musk in the base with light wood. A masterpiece of lavenders and, as with many lavender colognes, the lavender note is fleeting but the dry down is wonderful. Smells like a traditional men's cologne, floral, refreshing with some depth.

Swiss Army for Men

A lively and tenacious fresh cologne. Begins with flowery and citrus notes, perhaps somewhat orangey. The middle is mostly floral with very light woods and the very slightest hint of pine very deep in there somewhere. The overall impression is quite floral and I swear I get a lot of neroli (orange blossom) notes for some reason, even into the dry down. The base is light musk and mild cedarwood that isn't very woody.

The lasting power is good and I would not spray a bunch of this because it can get potent fast.